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Most people I have met have had one issue or another at some point with stretching canvas, but another consideration is what happens immediately following. I once participated in a show that was in a very humid climate compared to my typical dry studio climate. Upon unpacking the crate, to our horror, we discovered that this drastic change in humidity (no doubt combined with the vibration associated with shipping), caused all of the paintings to be hanging loosely from the stretcher bars. While it might have been less noticeable on smaller works, with these large paintings we could see drooping rolls in the canvas. We spent the time unframing, re-stretching, and framing them before the show. Flash forward a month, and when I unpacked the paintings back in the studio, I noticed they had re-tightened, leaving the crease from the stretcher bar visible in some areas around the perimeter of the painting! Ultimately, this does not affect how good the painting is, but the occasional dimensional crease like this can be visually unappealing. Unfortunately, the only remaining solution now would be to re-stretch the painting on smaller bars, or to mount it to a less climate-reactive substrate such as ACM, and re-frame the piece.
HARDBOARD
A solution to the warping issue is hardboard (often called by the brand name Masonite). Generally speaking, hardboard is comprised of wood pulp that has been pressed into a board, usually using the wood’s natural glue to reconstitute its strength. There is no wood grain and it is dense, making it less likely to warp. Originally, I was concerned about possible additives (preservatives like formaldehyde or unknown acidic glues) that could eat away at paintings, which can often be found in hardware store hardboards. As I worked with art-grade hardboard, though, I found an even more disheartening characteristic: the ease with which the hardboard can break, flake, crumble, or swell. Even when sealed, an innocuous jolt to a corner can expose the wood pulp fibers, acting as a gateway for moisture to penetrate or for more stress to occur. I have many panels that have succumbed to this fate. The solution, of course, is to put these panels into a frame right away, again negating the cost/space benefit of hardboard. In less common circumstances, I have heard of fellow artists whose studios have fallen victim to a leak or flood, destroying numerous paintings completed on this substrate.
Another newer and popular substrate is the PH-balanced Gatorfoam board, often called Gator board. Easy to cut, lightweight and firm, traveling with it is a snap. Unfortunately, it can also snap. Or dent. Or puncture. Corners have always been particularly problematic for me. Also, there is the possibility that something could fall on it. An apprentice of mine had just finished a beautifully executed master copy, and she had turned it facing a wall on a table to dry. Through some incredibly uncommon occurrence, overnight, the walls shook, and a framed painting fell off the wall, hitting the back of the Gator board. The board was punctured, and the painting was dented from the back. Weeks of hard work were then reduced to a restoration project. Ultimately, the convenience of the Gator board did not outweigh the damage it did. To top it off, Gator board, being a paper base, is more at risk to the damaging effects of water than wood or hardboard.
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